4 hours among the ice for a breathtaking discovery.
In Svalbard, beyond the Arctic Circle and on the borders of the former Soviet Union, lies Pyramiden, a Russian mining settlement abandoned in the late 1990s.
A “hotel” among the bears.
Today, a handful of solitary individuals manage a “hotel” among the bears in Pyramiden, Svalbard. There are no inhabited lands further north than this Norwegian archipelago, whose name, not coincidentally, means “cold coast.” There is much ice, no trees, only a few low shrubs, and a light carpet of grass in the height of summer. With just over 2,600 inhabitants, Svalbard is subject to the eponymous Treaty, which grants signatories the right to colonize the area.
The Svalbard Treaty
Of the right to colonize granted to the signatories of the Svalbard Treaty, only the Russians took advantage by opening coal mines. Today, in addition to Norwegians, the area is populated by descendants of these colonizers who remained after the dissolution of the USSR.
Cruises Among the Ice
During the months of summer daylight, various activities are offered to visitors, always centered around the nature of the place. First of all, there are cruises to visit the glaciers, where bears can often be spotted. Canoeing excursions, dog-sledding on wheeled sleds, glacier trekking, fast zodiac tours, and visits to the global seed bank are also available.
The Northenskiöld Cruise
We experienced the cruise to the Northenskiöld Glacier. It was a day of sailing among the ice, accompanied by a dazzling sun that can only be experienced at these latitudes. During the journey, the guide shared fascinating stories of hunters and explorers. After the barbecue lunch on the ship’s deck, we reached the Russian mining settlement of Pyramiden.
Pyramiden Ghost City
Ghost towns always hold a certain allure. Pyramiden is one of them. Soviet since 1927, the mining settlement was progressively equipped to host miners and their families, organized in a community structure with a common dining hall for 200 people.
At Svalbard, Between Cinema and KGB
There was a 300-seat cinema, a large swimming pool, a gym, a school, a library, and even a KGB office. Over a thousand people lived here. After the end of the USSR, decay began until the sudden closure in 1998, which froze the place, leaving memories and traces everywhere.
The Irreducibles of Pyramiden
Today, about ten Russians reside here, managing a hotel for solitary souls seeking Arctic thrills. Perhaps not five stars, but certainly full of charm. Even for the bears that regularly “visit” it.
